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A 2026 study evaluated an anhydrous skincare concentrate with 10% azelaic acid and 0.1% retinal in 23 participants over eight weeks. The finished formula performed better than its vehicle on several measured skin parameters, but the results cannot be attributed to Azepur99 or azelaic acid alone.
A 2026 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported improvements in redness, surface irregularities, pore parameters and texture after participants used an anhydrous concentrate containing 10% azelaic acid and 0.1% retinal for eight weeks. The randomized, vehicle-controlled split-face study included 23 participants; its findings apply to the complete formulation, not to Azepur99 or azelaic acid by itself.
The research by Gaudicheau, Ahlström, Gillbro and Åkerström assessed a six-ingredient concentrate against its vehicle. The listed ingredients were squalane, azelaic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, Hordeum vulgare seed flour and retinal. Researchers assessed outcomes using Antera 3D imaging, standardized photography and participant self-assessments.
Compared with the vehicle, the active formulation was associated with an 18.1% improvement in overall redness, a 12.7% improvement in surface irregularities, a 22.3% improvement in pore parameters and a 5.6% improvement in skin texture. Maximum redness intensity fell by 5.2%. The report describes these differences as statistically significant, but the supplied study summary does not provide further details about the statistical tests or the clinical importance of each change.
Participant questionnaires also recorded perceived changes: 95% reported calmer-feeling skin, 87% said their overall skin condition improved, and 82% reported reduced oiliness. Improvements in pimple size or severity and in the number of pimples were reported by 78% and 74%, respectively. These percentages refer to participants’ self-assessments, not independently measured treatment effects.
What the Formula Results Show
The findings offer a clinical evaluation of a finished product combining azelaic acid and retinal, rather than evidence about the isolated performance of either ingredient. That distinction matters to consumers and product developers: formulation, ingredient combinations and the comparison product can all affect how a skincare product performs and feels.
The study may be relevant to people considering products marketed for blemish-prone skin, visible redness or uneven texture, but it does not establish that this formula will produce the same results for every user. The participant group was small, and the assessment lasted eight weeks. The reported percentages should be read as outcomes from this particular study, not as a general prediction for other products containing azelaic acid.
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How Azepur99 Was Used
Azepur99, supplied by Azeco Cosmeceuticals, was the azelaic acid ingredient used in the formulation assessed by Skinome Research. The supplier describes it as cosmetic-grade azelaic acid with at least 99% purity, natural origin and micronized particle size. Those are supplier descriptions of the ingredient, not study outcomes.
According to the report, Azeco Cosmeceuticals did not take part in the study design, execution, data analysis or publication; its involvement was limited to supplying the ingredient used in the tested formula. The study is identified as an eight-week randomized, prospective, split-face, vehicle-controlled trial. Its published citation is in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, with DOI 10.1111/ics.70131.
“The study evaluated a minimalist anhydrous concentrate containing 10% azelaic acid and 0.1% retinal.”
— Study authors Gaudicheau, Ahlström, Gillbro and Åkerström, as described in the published report
Limits of the Eight-Week Trial
The reported findings do not show how much of the observed change came from azelaic acid, retinal, other ingredients or their combination. The study compared the active formula with its vehicle, not separate versions that would isolate each active ingredient. It therefore cannot establish an Azepur99-specific effect.
The source summary gives the number of participants who completed the study but does not describe their demographic profile, the full range of adverse events, or whether benefits persisted after treatment stopped. It also does not provide enough information here to assess how the results might vary across different skin types or routines. The reported outcomes are limited to this small, eight-week study; broader or longer-term effects remain unclear.
Further Evidence to Watch
The next useful evidence would include larger trials with longer follow-up and clear reporting on participant characteristics, tolerability and the durability of measured changes. Studies comparing formulations with and without retinal or azelaic acid could help distinguish the contribution of each active ingredient from the effects of the complete product.
For now, the published trial supports a limited conclusion: the tested combination performed better than its vehicle on several measures over eight weeks. It does not establish that other azelaic acid products, or Azepur99 on its own, will produce the same results.
Key Questions
What did the study test?
It tested an anhydrous concentrate with 10% azelaic acid and 0.1% retinal against its vehicle over eight weeks in a randomized, split-face study.
Did the study prove Azepur99 alone improves skin?
No. Azepur99 was the azelaic acid source in the formula, but the study assessed the complete product. It did not isolate the effect of Azepur99 or azelaic acid alone.
How many people completed the trial?
Twenty-three participants completed the study. The supplied report summary does not give further details about the participants’ demographics.
What changes did participants report?
In self-assessments, 95% reported calmer-feeling skin, 87% reported an improvement in overall skin condition and 82% reported reduced oiliness. These were participant-reported outcomes.
Can the findings be applied to other azelaic acid products?
Not directly. The outcomes apply to the specific six-ingredient formula and eight-week study. Other products may differ in formulation, concentration and use, and were not tested.
Source: rss
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